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No Dig?

no-dg

No Dig Gardens Are Easy.

We built our 1 acre garden completely by no-dig because it was covered in invasive kikuyu, the soil was heavily compacted and DDT had been used on the site previously.

For best success with no dig garden beds always start on a stable edge and can be extended rather than beds in the center of a grassy area. A stable edge may be a footpath, another garden bed, an out-building, a wall etc.

No-dig gardening was pioneered by Esther Deans, she wrote fabulous book in the 70s about No-dig gardening and she came to visit our site and although we do it slightly differently because we don’t use hard edges, she encouragingly approved! All our edges in the garden are relocatable to allow us to expand the garden and use the previous garden bed as a stable edge.

1. Start of a new no-dig garden: soil is hard clay.

2. Cardboard flattened and soaked.

3. Straw and pockets of compost or soil for plants are added.

4. More paths form a mandala, sticks on top to deter chickens, cloches made from bottles.

5. Two years on, the soil is improved and plants filling all the spaces. No-Dig garden beds on flat land are easier than on sloped land.

Start your garden from a stable edge forming a garden that can be extended rather than siting your garden beds in the center of a grassy area.

No-dig beds on flat areas:
1. Collect a lot of newspapers and cardboard, I like to leave them in packs outside to get wet in the rain.
2. Flatten the area and dig out the strong weeds such as clumping grasses. Clear the edge (a brick wall, a shaded or weed-free area) place paper then cardboard securely into this edge, overlap all the cardboard about 10 inches. you can establish a stable edge to fight grasses with larger plants directly in the soil like arrowroot, or lemongrass and shrubs.
3. Plan a neat edge (you can lay the hose or some string for temporary guide, then step back to the center of your planned garden start laying cardboard in the center and work around this center overlapping in a fan shape until you have the bed filled with cardboard, circular beds are far more weed resistant than square.
4. Once you have the edge defined neatly in cardboard, no pieces sticking out too far, place rocks or pots onto this edge.
5. With a sharp spade cut next to the edge into the lawn so that runners are severed (we found this vital for kikuyu)
6. Cover the entire area with mulch; keep covering it as mulch becomes available.
7. Let the mulch mature. If you have abundant water this can be speeded up a bit with watering.
8. Check for weed growth in the beds BEFORE planting any plants.
9. If there is grass coming through, scrape back the mulch and plaster this area with paper and cardboard. Increase the thickness of mulch too. Wait again!
10. Finally, when you have checked that the old lawn beneath the new garden is dead, you are ready to plant you seedlings and trees. In our garden we have to wait 18months. If you don’t have this amount of time to wait, plant only annuals and repeat the process (steps 1-9) after harvesting your fruits (e.g. Melons) and vegetables. Planting into your garden is truly the fun part – insert your little seedlings with just a handful of compost or soil, mulch up the plant. You can add a rock to increase condensation harvest to the seedling. Keep the area watered in early period as these plants do not have rising moisture from the soil.
No-dig beds on sloping areas:
We re-use hesian sacks from food factories to ensure it doesn’t have a store of toxins in it.

1. We kill the weeds by smothering with cardboard covered in carpet or just straight carpet.

2. Dig out the strong weeds such as grasses from your stable edge place paper then cardboard securely into this edge,overlap all the cardboard about 10 inches.

3. Do not start in the center, start at the top as the cardboard slips pretty badly when you walk on it. AND you want the overlap to trap any rain water, not shed it as with roof tiling.

4. Lay your cardboard with good overlaps and work on a shape that ends in a secure contour (ease of mowing around). I have found that drooping, and weeping plants on this edge keep the weeds from running uphill.

5. At intervals, lay sticks onto the cardboard ON CONTOUR these help hold the mulch.

Continue with steps 5 – 8 as above.

See more pictures and Learn much more, do a permaculture course with us.

Annual and Perennial Food Plants in Balance

rose_bug_permaculturevisionsIt is hard to find a productive balance between annual and perennial food plants. Annuals reward us with abundance for their short period growth, whereas perennials do more than just produce food – they give us microclimates, habitat, water filtration, fuel, condensation capture, erosion control, mulch.

Reclaim Your Front Garden

You can reclaim you front garden by planting privacy screens which also help reduce pollution, enable people to open curtains and get more fresh air.  When the area is well protected, children can play in these spaces, you can greet the neighbours and birds and small animals can be encouraged to visit. This brings a family closer to nature and closer to their community.  You can use berms, trees, shrubs, hedges and fencing to create beautiful useful spaces.