Nuture Your Future No dig gardens are easy. There is a good video by Robin Francis called the Mandala Garden. I have had most success with beds that start on a stable edge and can be extended rather than beds in the center of a grasses area. No-dig gardening was pioneer and founded by Esther Deans, she wrote fabulous books about No-dig gardening and has been to visit our site and although we do it slightly differently because we don't use hard edges, she encouragingly approved!
SEE PHOTOS AT END, SCROLL ON
No dig gardens are
easy and there is a good video by Robin Francis called the mandala
garden. Start your garden from a stable edge forming a garden
that can be extended rather than siting your garden beds in the
center of a grassy area.
No-dig beds on flat areas:
1. Collect a lot of newspapers and cardboard, I like to leave
them in packs outside to get wet in the rain.
2. Flaten the area
and dig out the strong weeds such as grasses from a stable edge
(a brick wall, a shaded or weed-free area) place paper then cardboard
securely into this edge, overlap all the cardboard about 10 inches.
you can establish a stable edge to fight grasses with larger plants
directly in the soil like arrowroot, or lemongrass and shrubs.
3. Plan a neat edge
(you can lay the hose or some string for temporary guide, then
step back to the center of your planned garden start laying cardboard
in the center and work around this center overlapping in a fan
shape until you have the bed filled with cardboard, circular beds
are far more weed resistant than square.
4. Once you have the edge defined neatly in cardboard, no pieces
sticking out too far, place rocks or pots onto this edge.
5. With a sharp spade cut next to the edge into the lawn so that
runners are severed (we found this vital for kikuyu)
6. Cover the entire
area with mulch; keep covering it as mulch becomes available.
7. Let the mulch mature. If you have abundant water this can be
sped up a bit with watering.
8. Check for weed growth in the beds BEFORE planting any plants.
9. If there is grass coming through, scrape back the mulch and
plaster this area with paper and cardboard. Increase the thickness
of mulch too. Wait again!
10. Finally when you have checked that the old lawn beneath the
new garden is dead you are ready to plant you seedlings and trees.
In our garden we have to wait 18months. If you don't have this
amount of time to wait, plant only annuals and repeat the process
(steps 1-9) after harvesting your fruits (eg. Melons) and vegetables.
Planting into your garden is truly the fun part - insert your
little seedlings with just a handful of compost or soil, mulch
up the plant. You can add a rock to increase condensation harvest
to the seedling. Keep the area watered in early period as these
plants do not have rising moisture from the soil.
I use underlay, the
one piece of old underlay is used again and again to ensure it
doesn't have a store of toxins in it.
1. I kill the weeds by smothering with cardboard covered in carpet or just straight carpet.
2. dig out the strong
weeds such as grasses from your stable edge place paper then cardboard
securely into this edge, overlap all the
cardboard about 10 inches.
3. Do not start in the center, start at the top as the cardboard slips pretty badly when you walk on it. AND you want the overlap to trap any rain water, not shed it (as with roof tiling.)
4. lay your cardboard with good overlaps and work on a shape that ends in a secure contour (ease of mowing around). I have found that drooping, and weeping plants on this edge keep the weeds from running uphill.5. at intervals, lay sticks onto the cardboard ON CONTOUR these help hold the mulch.
Continue with steps 5 - 8 as above.
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